For years, chef John Fraser has been arguably one of the most under the radar and underrated chef’s in New York, as the executive chef of Upper West Side gem, Dovetail. Despite earning a michelin star, Dovetail’s location on 103 West 77th Street is located in one of the most obscure neighborhoods, not known as an epicenter for transcending culinary spaces. Recently, the Upper West Side has seen a surge in exceptional food including Red Farm, Meatball Shop, and soon, Parm. Nevertheless, Fraser finally relocated downtown with Narcissa at Andre Balazs’ Standard East, which opened this past fall. Focusing on a vegetable centric menu, Narcissa serves locally sourced ingredients that features seasonal, local and organic produce from Andre Balazs’ farm in Hudson Valley. The menu, which features rotisserie, roasting and slow cooking, is best described as “California” style cooking.
The menu offers an abundance of attractive and favorable appetizers that underscore Fraser’s fascination with rotisserie style cooking using locally sourced vegetables. Rotisserie Crisped Beets, Rotisserie Grilled Sweet Potato are unique and delectable ways to start each meal. In addition to vegetables and salads, several shellfish and raw fish are offered as well including Baked Oysters, Raw Tuna and Long Island Fluke Crudo. Perhaps the appetizers are the biggest winners at Narcissa, which offers something for everyone, despite his or her discerning palate’s In fact, the Potato Gnocchi, was arguably my favorite dish.
As for the entree’s, while the variety was not as plentiful as the appetizers, the main courses offer several praiseworthy ways to enjoy Fraser’s unique style of cooking. Whole Rotisserie Branzino, Lacquered Duck Breast, Carrots Wellington and Lamb Loin underline the commendable variety in choice the menu possesses.
The Lacquered Duck Breast, which was served with gingered butternut squash and cranberries is almost the quintessential dish I would relish every Thanksgiving Dinner, offering exquisite texture and unbelievably rich flavor complemented by the cranberry and butternut squash. The Maine Scallops, while maybe a bit pedestrian, served a unique side of green garlic, spaghetti squash and golden beets, that were delicious. What maybe the most famous instagramed picture at Narcissa, the Carrot Fries, were one of my favorite dishes on the menu, which are fun, delicious and unique.
The biggest disappointment at Narcissa was the lackluster (at best?) service. A sluggish staff that seemed completely overwhelmed despite the room being only half full on a Monday evening, was definitely the one downside I found with my experience. What distinguishes a restaurant such as Dovetail that earns a michelin star annually with one like Narcissa is the exceptional service and knowledgeable, attentive staff. I found the wine list at Narcissa to be mediocre (and pricey), and upon going with a Santorini white wine, that was both insipid and took almost fifteen minutes to arrive, I was almost angry the waiter did not dissuade me from ordering it. Where were the white burgundy’s by the glass?!
Nevertheless, in the end, the mediocre wine list, average staff and somewhat high prices did not take away from the exceptional quality food and menu crafted by John Fraser. With Narcissa, chef John Fraser will finally gain the proper exposure and marketability that will finally showcase this new California style of cooking that focuses on locally sources produce and vegetables that is now becoming a increasingly hot new trend in NYC. With Amanda Cohen’s upcoming, larger Dirt Candy space and Jean Georges’ recently announced third ABC restaurant, ABC Vegetable, Narcissa is definitively a trendsetter, that exceptionally serves one of the most unique and delicious menu’s in town.
Rating: 2 Stars/4 Stars (One for Quality of Food, One for Inventiveness of Menu, Negative One for Service, Negative One for Poor Wine List)
Narcissa
21 Cooper Square (Standard Hotel East)
New York, NY, 10003
P: + 1 (212) 228-3344
2DineOut- the luxury food magazine. 